“It was the most beautiful, challenging, awe-inspiring,
painful, growth-filled, terrible, joyful, gut-wrenching, peaceful and blessed
summer of my life.” At the beginning of every school year one of the most
common questions we excitedly ask one another is “How was your summer?!?!”
Despite the fact that the month of October begins this week, I still cannot
fully give life to the experience that I had this summer on the Camino de Santiago,
and so when I’m asked, I answer the way I began this post: I’m still figuring
it out.
I learned about the Camino when I was a student at SLU.
Hiking through Spain, a thousand year old pilgrimage, and Spanish food and
culture were enough to pique my interest at the time. But I was in school and
would be for the next several years (two of which were spent in graduate school), and so I put the pilgrimage on
my bucket list, not knowing when I would ever have an entire month to spend on
the journey, not to mention the money! It wasn’t until I decided to come back
to SLU as a campus minister that I was finally able to realistically consider
and make the decision to begin the journey to Santiago- having two months off
in the summer really helps!!
When I began preparing for the journey, I did what I could
to learn more about the experience. As I’m not much of a planner, I didn’t’
spend a lot of time looking up the route or reading tons of books on other
peoples’ journeys. What I did know was that the walk was about 800km (over 500
miles!) and that I’d be walking through Spain. I knew that I’d need some good
hiking boots, a backpack, and clothes, as well as a heart and mind ready to be
open to the ways in which God would be at work in me. I was grateful that my
wonderful friend Kate was able to join me and as we began to purchase the
necessary hiking gear, she helped me prepare for the journey, both physically
on our practice hikes (we only did about 3…oops.) and emotionally and
spiritually as we challenged one another to consider what we wanted to learn
from the experience.
Stepping off the bus as we arrived in St. Jean, our
beginning point, Kate and I realized that no matter how much we had trained and
learned about the trip, we really had no idea what we were getting ourselves
into. We knew that we had our guide book (which Kate graciously and faithfully
took care of), we had our backpacks (filled with WAY too much stuff), we knew a
tiny bit of Spanish, and we had each other.
All of those things and a LOT of prayer would help us get through the
hike.
As I laid in the rickety top bunk bed in a cold French albergue
(a pilgrim hostel) I began to realize that my camino, our camino, had already
begun. Before I even made my final decision to go, my journey into the heart of
God, which is what the Camino is really about, began a long time ago. It began
as I took ownership of my faith as a teenager, when I recognized my own desire
and calling to be a minister, and grew in me through the work
of the Holy Spirit, the call to the “Magis”, to be “more”, to go deeper in my
faith and into myself.
The next day as we began our hike, we walked out of our
albergue with several others who had stayed at the same place. The five of us
walked down the street and toward the trail.
Uncertain of where to go, we discovered markers, arrows, symbols of the
Camino that pointed the way to Santiago. They pointed the way to the next town,
the next water or café con leche stop (VERY important!), the way to our next
meal or non-wilderness bathroom. The shell,
the symbol of the Camino, guided our path, the way our friends, family members,
and life experiences show us the way toward God. I had been told that each sign we saw was
could be a reminder of the community of people who brought me to where I am,
each person who promised to pray for me as I walked, each person for whom I had
promised to pray. This sounded nice and like a good place to start in my prayer
journey.
As we journeyed over mountains, through hilly vineyards and
poppy-filled wheat fields, I desperately wanted to be able to walk each step
prayerfully, to be present to the many prayer intentions people had sent to me,
and to think deeply about my life…this idealistic way of walking quickly
disappeared from my experience at the beginning of our trip as blisters, leg
cramps, and knee issues took over every step I took. It seemed impossible to
think of anything other than the fact that my body had never hurt so bad in my
entire life. Every night I looked at my feet: blisters on every single toe,
despite buying the expensive shoes; my back aching with pain from carrying over
20lbs of supplies; my knees and ankles so tight that I could barely bend my
legs… I wasn’t sure how I was going to make it. Yes, the scenery was
INCREDIBLE, guilt-free chocolate-filled pastries for breakfast was great, but I
could not find a way to mentally or spiritually move beyond my pain. Each day
in those first two weeks I began with prayer; the only prayer I could pray was
that God would move in my heart despite my own lack of patience and attention
to prayer as I walked. Come, Holy Spirit. Come, Holy Spirit. COME NOW, HOLY
SPIRIT. SERIOUSLY. I. CAN’T. PRAY. THIS SUCKS! MY
FEET/LEGS/KNEES/BACK/TOES/ANKLES/EVERYTHING STINKIN’ HURTS!!! WHAT THE HECK,
HOLY SPIRIT?!?!?!
One of the hardest days for me was the day we left Pamplona.
That day we walked up a beautiful, poppy-filled (I really love poppies!) mountain that had its ridge covered in wind
turbines. The group we had formed of fellow pilgrims left early that morning and
began the hike. My knees were tense and walking was difficult. But I kept
moving. I made it up the mountain, friends checking on me every five minutes to
make sure I was okay. It wasn’t until we started hiking back down that I really
began to struggle (or at least admit that I was struggling). What should have
taken our group about an hour and a half took us three hours because of the
pace that I was moving. I’d have to stop every few steps just to regain
composure and try to smile. I had been dreaming of this trip for years and here
I was, ready to find the nearest taxi and quit. I tried to smile to the group
and make jokes, pretending like nothing was wrong, but
they knew. Eventually I
was so far behind the group
that I couldn’t see them ahead of me. When I turned a corner, I saw them
waiting for me not far ahead. It was clear they had been talking about me and
my pain. I didn’t want them to feel bad for me and I really didn’t want to slow
them down or ruin their day. I was afraid they were frustrated that they had
decided to walk with me. But when I (finally) finally met them at the bend in
the trail, Siobhan gently took off my backpack, handed it to her husband Hank,
and embraced me. “We’re not letting you suffer like this anymore. Hank is
taking your pack to the bottom of the hill. Take your time and take care of
yourself. You can do this.” My first reaction was almost to feel hurt. Did they
not think I could do this? I signed up for this hike, I want to do it on my
own. Who are they to make this decision for me? But as I slowly continued down
the hill, the sense of defeat I felt subsided. I had spent 6 years of my life
studying theology and working in ministry and telling people about the ways in
which we are called to care for others; to help carry the cross for one
another. And here I was, full of pride, unable to recognize the gift of love
and community that had been given to me.
That
day I truly realized that this journey was not my own. The journey of the
Camino, while also very personal, is deeply communal. Later that day as I was
resting in the albergue, Siobhan and Hank brought me a knee brace, which was
bought with so much love, especially considering the little amount of Spanish
they knew in trying to talk to the pharmacist. After a long walk into Burgos,
our friend Amy splurged on a hotel room that had sheets and a private shower.
She and her sons, Dan and Ryan, kept us laughing and the companionship (and
commiserating!) made the pain endurable. Christiana, Jerald, and Everett sang
and played games with us as we endured sometimes difficult walks. Penny’s spunk
kept us laughing and her determination and story inspired me in a way I’ll
remember forever. Jenniffer and Melissa welcomed us to pray the rosary with
them each day as we walked into our final town for the night and indulged me in
singing every song from the Pocahontas soundtrack. Carson and Jenni shared their joy and love
with us and kept us motivated to continue on days when the sun was strong and
water was scarce. We shared the path we walked, sangria, coffee, loaves of
bread, hunks of cheese, and even pulpo
(octopus!). Most importantly, we shared our stories in a way that was honest,
vulnerable, and received with love and openness. We laughed SO HARD together
and cried tears of joy and of pain. We prayed together, some of us for the
first time, and knew Christ’s incarnational presence surrounding us in the
community we had formed.
I could share a million stories about the people I met and
the crazy things we saw and did along the way, but I will never forget the way
our Camino Family stuck together in our last week of walking. The path had
gotten significantly more crowded the closer we got to Santiago. Tons of people
had started walking about 100km before the city and it was, at times,
frustrating for those of us who had been walking for so long. We kept our
spirits high by sticking together, and reminding ourselves of the spirit of the
Camino: live in the moment, welcome each day- its pleasures and its challenges,
make others feel welcome, share, feel the spirit of those who have gone before
you, imagine those who will follow you, appreciate
those who walk with you today. We did our best to welcome the new pilgrims
and to keep this spirit of generosity and love with us as we walked. We
decided, however, that on our last day, the day we would walk into Santiago,
that we wanted to walk together, peacefully and with stillness. That morning we
woke up around 3:30am, gathered our things, and all twelve of us tip-toed out
of the albergue and into the darkness. We each turned on our headlamps and made
our way to the trail. About a half hour into our walk, we slowly stopped and
decided to turn off our lamps and stand in the dark silence. Without speaking
to one another, we began to walk down the wooded pathway without out lamps,
trusting in the sound of the footsteps ahead of us, trusting in the presence of
God to guide us. I don’t know how long
we walked in the darkness without talking, but it was one of the most
incredible moments of the entire journey. Walking under the field of stars,
remembering how far we had come and keeping in mind that our own journeys were
not over once we got to Santiago, they were really beginning. In that moment, I
could sense at once the depth of the personal journey that I had been on and
the depth of the community that we had formed over those six weeks. The
journey, that at one point had been all about me completing the walk, had now
become an adventure that I couldn’t
have done alone, full of grace in a way that I could never have imagined.
Our God, in a way I’d never experienced, invited me to know
love through community. I was invited beyond my pride and stubbornness to
deepen my relationship with Jesus through my pain so that I could begin to
understand how important the incarnation is for what happened on the cross. I
was invited into the lives of the people of God, privileged to be a part of
their journey, and humbled by the way in which they entered into mine. This was
the way, the “magis”, in which I had been invited to grow.
There is a lot that I’m still trying to reflect on after my
journey this summer and I think that I’ll be learning from this experience for
the rest of my life. Being back at SLU this year, I have been blessed to walk
with and enter into the lives of many students and one of the things I hear
over and over is the desire to know others and to be known; the desire for
authentic community. That desire, I believe, is one that is at the deepest part
of who we are: beloveds of a Triune God. Being made in the image of God means
making ourselves vulnerable to one another, having a deep, deep respect and love
for the journey of the other, and building up a community of Love (read: the
Kingdom of God!). Be a part of each others’ journeys. Be gentle in the times
when you are with one another in pain. Be vulnerable and unafraid to be who you
were created to be, and to discover who you are together. Most of all, know the
holiness, the incarnate and living God in the every person you encounter. This
is the beginning of building the Kingdom.